Hours: Breakfast, Monday through Saturday, 8 a.m. until 11 a.m. Restaurant open until 9 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays and until 10 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. Closed Sundays.

Atmosphere: Pleasant; deli-modern.

Credit Cards: None.

Price Range: Sandwiches from $1.30 to $3.75.

Special features: Double-door entrance makes wheelchair entry difficult. High chairs and booster seats. Complete carry-out menu. Separate ice cream concoction menu.

Displaced Chicago, New York and St. Louis rye bread lovers spend years looking for a decent delly. Everyone has a preconceived notion as to taste and preparation. Some restaurants have been known to flunk on their mustard alone.

But tucked away on a side of Loehmann's Plaza is a small, clean restaurant specializing in top-flight large creations -- Celebrity Delly.

It is a restaurant that has not given way to complete dinners, fancy sauces or the compulsion to tuck cole slaw inside every sandwich. Instead, Celebrity Delly keeps to the basics of good, hearty sandwiches and homemade soups that are first-class.

The menu is filled with a star-studded cast of Hollywood cariacatures. The children had no difficulty spotting Groucho and Mickey Mouse, but had to play a guessing game for the others. The restaurant walls also are lined with photos of the stars.

Celebrity Delly began right on cue with its large beverage menu that includes the necessities: Dr. Brown sodas and chocolate egg creams.

Homemade soups and chili head the list of family pleasers. Both the chicken noodle and the beef noodle ($1.25 each) were filled with bite-sized pieces of meat in individually seasoned hearty sauces.

Our other pre-sandwich selection was a meat knish ($1.25). This was the only disappointment of the evening, but that is probably due to our prior delly education and the meat taste we hoped to find. I advise ordering cole slaw, potato salad or steak fries instead.

The menu possibilities are divided into salads, subs, single-layer sandwiches and heavenly creations. You may order a plain sandwich on your choice of bread without being forced to try several meats or cheeses as an accompaniment. b

All the portions are large, and two children easily could share many of the choices. With soup for a starter, adults would often be satisfied by sharing sandwiches and saving room for one of the many fun-sounding desserts.

My Mother's hot corned beef sandwich was thin-sliced, beautifully lean corned beef that had recently been cooked. The menu proudly states the roast beef, corned beef and pastrami are cooked daily. The freshness is evident.

The hot brisket sandwich with gravy ordered by our son did not arrive swimming in gravy, but the waitress quickly remedied the problem by bringing a separate dish of thin sauce. Our son, however, had expected thick, brown gravy and his taste buds never recuperated. Fortunately, he agreed to a trade with his sister.

I think she won, for he received a hamburger instead of the large, lean brisket sandwich.But the hamburger was good, too, -- served on a large seeded roll with lettuce and tomato.

Both sandwiches ($2.95 each ) are well worth your attention. In the combination department of corned beef and pastrami ($3.25), the Chicago King gave equal praise to both freshly steamed entrants.

Often when you take a plain sandwich and dress it with cheeses, sauerkraut and a russian dressing, you have a soggy character called a Reuben. At the Celebrity Delly, the Reuben ($3.50) was first-rate.

One of the restaurant's important contributions to the metropolitan dining scene is its effort to keep prices reasonable for the quality and quantity of its product. Our dinner for five with tax and tip was $26.73, an acceptable price for celebrity dining.