Hours: Monday through Saturday, 7 a.m. until 6 p.m. Closed Sundays.

Atmosphere: Grandmother's kitchen.

Price range: Sandwiches, $1.19 to $3.50; other specialties, $2 to $4.

Reservations: No.

Credit cards: None; no personal checks.

Special features: Counter and table seating. Highhairs and booster seats.

Can you imagine Reeves Bakery without its strawberry pies?

This familiar Washington establishment, which has been baking and slicing fruit pies for almost 100 years, makes 500 pies daily. In addition to its baked goods, old-fashioned ambiance and reasonable prices are standard at Reeves.

As you look around the room, you realize time has been frozen there. Where else can you take the kids for a real soda fountain meal without having to travel to a small town?

My children are normally impatient when they're hungry, but they would have waited all afternoon for seats at the counter. It had been a long morning for us playing tourist downtown and we were all eager to sample a late lunch at Reeves. It took great effort to get our party of three children and one adult to focus on the fact that we were going to have lunch before dessert. I knew we should have small lunches, however, because dessert from the bakery was essential.

The menu features sandwiches, subs, salads, platters and fried chicken. The fried chicken would have to wait for a time when we would bring dessert home. On this day, the weary tourists needed instant gratification.

Everyone glanced at the menu and made quick decisions. The pizza steak sub ($3.25) was a perfect solution for one child who always orders pizza. Everything was gooey and fresh.

Two children ordered hamburgers ($2.75) and were just as pleased. All portions are large, and what better choices than the old American standards: burgers and pizza? I continued the pattern.

The chili ($2) was a perfect blend of meat and beans served piping hot. Texans would find it underseasoned, perhaps.

Now we understood why the counters and tables were filled. Reeves understands the basic luncheon requirements of good food and quick service.

But on to the most important matter: which of the fresh-baked aromas would find their way to our counter-top?

The children already had made tentative choices as they paced in front of the display cases and discussed the merits of each selection. The waitress invited us to look at the case once more. In a surprise move, two ordered cookies ($4.50 a pound) and two, fruit pies ($1.35 a slice).

The smiling waitress watched knowingly as the children enjoyed trading their chocolate chip cookies for bites of blueberry and strawberry pies. The strawberry pie crust is far superior to the heavier one used for the blueberries.

Whether its customers order an egg or toast, a burger or chicken, Reeves knows what the want: quality and quantity, two products easily found at this downtown delight.

The bill, including tax and tip, was $21.54