Jean Troisgros, 57, a French chef who was known worldwide as a leading exponent of "la nouvelle cuisine," a form of culinary revisionism that simplified traditional French gourmet cooking, died of a heart attack Aug. 8 in Vittel, France, following a tennis match.
Since 1950, Mr. Troisgros and his younger brother, Pierre, had operated one of France's most famous restaurants in Roanne, The Hotel of the Troisgros Brothers. In 1968, they received the supreme accolade of French cooking, three stars in the Michelin Guide. They had won their first Michelin star in 1955 and their second in 1965.
Along with chefs Paul Bocuse and Guerard and Alain Senderens, they were pioneers of the cooking that marked a departure from the traditional rich sauces of French cuisine--barely cooked crisp vegetables and sparse use of sauces, many of them made without flour.
They disliked the traditional garnishes of French cooking, such as the steamed potato, watercress or sauteed croutons "that uselessly encumber the plate and contribute nothing to the dish."
"Why damage or mask the flavor of fine meat, the freshness of spring vegetables," the brothers wrote in "Cuisiniers a Roanne." What is needed is "precise timing and delicate sauces divested of complication. The sauces may exalt but should always allow ingredients to be what they are. This is what we try to achieve."
The brothers had received their training at the Lucas-Carton restaurant in Paris. The brothers then went to Vienne, south of Lyon, to work at La Pyramide for the great chef Ferdinand Point before returning to Roanne.
Survivors include a daughter and a son.