We generally aren't superstitious, but we're starting to wonder if a jinx is haunting the corner of this shopping center off Rte. 50. Each of the restaurants that has tried this space during the past few years has been mediocre, and New Harbor Seafood is no exception.

New Harbor makes some thoughtful attempts to be an interesting, gracious restaurant, but most of them don't work. There are pink napkins folded like Japanese fans in each water glass, and lovely flowering plants, but on the whole the cavernous dining room feels disjointed and impermanent.

But the biggest problem is the food. The menu at New Harbor is ambitious, offering everything from rainbow trout and swordfish to pompano and shark steaks. You can get your seafood spicy or mild, stuffed with crab or dusted with herbs, broiled or fried or steamed in a foil pouch. Even the best restaurants in town don't tackle so many dishes, which is probably the heart of the problem here. The cooks don't have the time to master any dishes.

Much of the fish we tried was overcooked and chewy. The crab stuffings, particularly in the whole baby salmon or flounder, tasted slightly off-flavor. Most of the sauces looked and tasted the same, a little butter and oil bombarbed with paprika.

And although the restaurant menu and servers promise that everything is fresh, some of our fish tasted mushy and tired.

For dessert, try the festive Baked Alaska.