The Washington Post

Former Rogue 24 pastry chef takes Four Seasons job

Pastry chef Chris Ford at his old post at Rogue 24. (Dayna Smith)

“I’m moving to Baltimore,” Ford, 26, announced earlier today. “I start Monday.”

Just two hours after resigning from Rogue 24 on Sept. 27, Ford says he heard from Lincoln Carson, Mina’s corporate pastry chef. The new hire will be responsible for the sweets served at Lamill, a breakfast and lunch venue named after the Los Angeles-based coffee roaster, and Wit & Wisdom, a 110-seat modern tavern specializing in food from the mid-Atlantic. (The hotel’s third eatery will be an 80-seat Japanese-style pub called Pabu.) Ford, who says he will be Carson’s “right-hand man,” calls his new gig “the biggest opportunity I’ve ever had.”

The desserts at both restaurants will be American and nostalgic: “simple elegance,” says Ford and “very, very different from Rogue” and its fashion-forward finales. “I love bringing people back to their childhoods.”

Ford will represent the Four Seasons two days before his official start date at a charity event: Share Our Strength’s Taste of the Nation at the Renaissance Baltimore Harborplace Hotel.

Weaned on a beige buffet a la “Fargo” in Minnesota, Tom Sietsema is the food critic for The Washington Post. This is his second tour of duty at the Post. Sietsema got his first taste in the ‘80s, when he was hired by his predecessor to answer phones, write some, and test the bulk of the Food section’s recipes. That’s how he learned to clean squid, bake colonial cakes and distinguish between nutmeg and mace.

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