Monday night’s blue-plate special at Blue 44 Restaurant & Bar is fried chicken with sauteed green beans, mashed potatoes and a house-made biscuit. (Matt McClain/For The Washington Post)

In this week’s Washington Post Magazine, Tom Sietsema visits the new Friendship Heights restaurant Blue 44 . While he doesn’t love the entire menu, our critic fell hard for the Monday evening fried chicken plate, and he decrees that you can eat there contentedly on other days of the week, providing you know what to order. Matt McClain’s photos depict a handsome young restaurant and the fried chicken that I really want to try... right now.

Executive Chef James Turner, 41, hails from the Eastern Shore. He’s cooked in a handful of area kitchens, most recently Harry Brown's in Annapolis and Persimmon in Bethesda. (Matt McClain for The Washington Post)

“I was tickled to see spaghetti and meatballs on the menu,” Sietsema writes, “ but the dish's execution left me cold. The pasta was so limp, it could have been cooked in the dishwasher.” (Matt McClain/For The Washington Post)

“From my seat at a window table, I got a glimpse of how appreciated Blue 44 must be in the neighborhood. Other than a Starbucks, a bagel shop and the Chevy Chase Lounge, there's little to engage residents' appetites,” Sietsema writes. (Matt McClain/For The Washington Post)

Go ahead and take one more look at that fried chicken dinner. Right? (Matt McClain/The Washington Post)