At Medium Rare in Cleveland Park, there’s only one decision to make: How do you like your meat cooked? (Scott Suchman/For The Washington Post)

Taking his place in the tiny kitchen is JaiJuan Sheffield, who comes to the single-dish concept from stints at Ray’s the Steaks (both locations) and Clyde’s at Gallery Place , high-profile, high-volume establishments. Maupillier says he worked with his successor for about a month before leaving.

The chef’s next step? “I’m in the market for a restaurant of my own or helping anyone out” until he finds the right real estate. His first choice is in the Chinatown/Penn Quarter area, which he appreciates for its “energy, culture, tourists and great chefs.”  

A surprise comes halfway through your meal: second helpings. Before you finish your steak, a server appears with a tray of more warm beef and fried potatoes. (Scott Suchman/For The Washington Post)