Chef Fabio Trabocchi at his restaurant Fiola in Penn Quarter. (By Scott Suchman/For The Washington Post)

The restaurant, designed by GrizForm Design Architects, oozes opu­lence, writes Sietsema. (By Scott Suchman/For The Washington Post)

Order a plate of lobsters — and you should — and they show up glistening with (Mississippi) caviar and an ice flavored with the oysters’ liquor. (By Scott Suchman/For The Washington Post)

Trabocchi and his wife, Maria, at Fiola. (By Scott Suchman/For The Washington Post)

Sietsema writes: “I can vouch for the asparagus puree poured over an island of burrata set off with tiny spears of asparagus and the perfect steamed snapper.” (By Scott Suchman/For The Washington Post)

Trabocchi’s kitchen excels at desserts, like this lemon verbena gelato with raspberry and passion fruit sauce. (By Scott Suchman/For the Washington Post)

One bite of Fiola’s lasagna with bianchetto sauce was enough to have Sietsema singing the return of Trabocchi. (By Scott Suchman/For the Washington Post)