Service director Jill Tyler works the counter at Little Serow. (Photo by Scott Suchman/For the Washington Post)

DC diners rejoice, for this Sunday’s dining column in the Magazine, Post food critic Tom Sietsema explores Little Serow , a new 17th Street NW Thai restaurant by the crew behind the starry Komi. The result: an eye-catching 3-star review, one of the brightest debuts in recent (and not so recent) memory. This is a (no-reservations-taken) dining spot you just have to check out — as long as you can stomach high heat and fish sauce. In the meantime, get an idea of what you are in for with a selection of Scott Suchman’s photos.

The fixed-price, set menu changes from week to week, so this grilled chicken with sweet and sour sauce may or may not be available when you go. (By Scott Suchman/For The Washington Post)

Evan Colondres plates dishes in front of Little Serow’s open kitchen, which abuts the dining room. (By Scott Suchman/For The Washington Post)

All dishes, like this plate of pork ribs and sour greens, are served family style with a bowl of green garnishes to be used as accompaniment, and, occasionally, utensil. (By Scott Suchman/For The Washington Post)

Don’t be fooled. Those napkins might be paper, but the plates are ceramic in disguise. (By Scott Suchman/For The Washington Post)

Johnny Monis, chef and owner of Little Serow and Komi, the savant of 17th street. (By Scott Suchman/For The Washington Post)