Vegetarian coconut milk soup is a meat-free highlight of Thai X-Ings Sunday vegetarian menu. (Stacy Zarin-Goldberg/For The Washington Post)

For his Dining column in Sunday’s Washington Post Magazine, food critic Tom Sietsema revisits Thai X-Ing , a tiny LeDroit Park Thai kitchen, to see how it’s fairing after a recent expansion. Sietsema laments the loss of takeout, but he finds a lot to love about the new all fixed-price menu, including the selections from the strictlyvegetarian Sunday menu. Sundays, Tom says, “are a treat, even if you aren't a vegetarian. The drill is the same -- the food just shows up, and the meal runs to five or so courses -- except for the absence of meat. Trust me: You won't miss it. Not when there is coconut milk soup brimming with sliced mushrooms, silky tofu and celery and shocked with lemon grass. “

Explore that and the rest of the menu in Stacy Zarin Goldberg’s photos:

Soft pumpkin draped with creamy red curry is good enought o spread a hush over the table.(Stacy Zarin-Goldberg/For The Washington Post)

Thai X-Ing’s homey atmosphere feels more a dinner party in a friend’s home than a restaurant. (Stacy Zarin-Goldberg/For The Washington Post)

Chef Taw Vigsittaboot learned his trade in his mother’s kitchen in Thailand.(Stacy Zarin-Goldberg/For The Washington Post)

Steamed fish is accompanied by a clear sauce of lime juice, garlic and sugar that gives the entree the right measure of sass. (Stacy Zarin-Goldberg/For The Washington Post)