An angelic sculpture looms over the bar at Virtue Feed & Grain. (Photo by Bill O'Leary/The Washington Post)

On the menu: “garlicky roast chicken with its pile of fat chips that only get better as they absorb the bird's juices,” Sietsema writes. (Photo by Bill O'Leary/The Washington Post)

This is the fourth venture from Chef Cathal Armstrong EatGoodFood Group, the people behind Restaurant Eve. (Photo by Bill O'Leary/The Washington Post)

Rockfish bedded on creamy mashed potatoes skeined with kale. (Photo by Bill O'Leary/The Washington Post)

With its multiple levels, the restaurant has a lofty feel. (Photo by Bill O'Leary/The Washington Post)