(Video by Clubhill Media)

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The construction paper has come off the windows at chef Bryan Voltaggio’s Range, which held a walk-through and tasting at the Chevy Chase Pavilion on Monday.

It’s the most attractive hangar you’ve ever dined in. The 14,000-square-foot space was formerly a SteinMart, where customers roamed the aisles in search of hidden discount racks of denim and sweaters. Now it’s “Oh, hey, there’s a huge wood-burning hearth,” or “Yikes, that’s a lot of shrimp.” Such is Range’s, well, range, that I needed to ask for directions to the walk-in charcuterie closet.

In keeping with the expansive theme, Range’s menu could be described as sweeping. It is indeed — as Voltaggio told The Post’s Tim Carman — a celebration of meat.

Kimchi linguini with uni and bay scallops.

The cocktails at Owen Thomson’s 25-seat bar are all $11, whether you order the obliquely titled “The Name Says It All” (a vodka soda) or the “Vegan Sacrifice,” a spicy scotch-and-ginger-ale concoction on the rocks — except those rocks are made from “beef ice,” which a bartender identified as clarified veal stock. (There also are three bottles of Pappy Van Winkle’s behind the bar at present — but you won’t have a chance to order any until the restaurant opens to the public beginning with a Dec. 15 preview.)

This is what an $800 sous vide machine looks like.

Range occupies 14,000 square feet on the second level of the Chevy Chase Pavilion. (Enlarge image) (Photos by Alex Baldinger/The Washington Post)