Executive chef Cedric Maupillier works in the kitchen at Mintwood Place. (Matt McClain/For The Washington Post)

For this week’s Magazine column, Washington Post food critic Tom Sietsema visited new Adams Morgan dining destination Mintwood Place. He liked what he saw, and he awarded Perry’s owner Saied Azali’s new place a sparkling three stars. Read the review and get a look at what the fuss is all about.

Chef Maupillier makes a superior cheeseburger, and the small version is a highlight of the kid’s menu. Yes, this three-star establishment welcomes diners-in-training. (Matt McClain/For The Washington Post)

The charming new restaurant faces Columbia Road. (Matt McClain/For The Washington Post)

Rroasted pork with charcutiere sauce and sides of char-grilled broccolini and potato gratin. (Matt McClain/For The Washington Post)

“The interior bows to the food,” Sietsema writes. “Knotty reclaimed wood, leather booths the color of espresso and some strategically placed wheat stalks and vintage ironwork create a cozy, uncomplicated setting for Maupillier's scene-stealing cooking.” (Matt McClain/For The Washington Post)

Bacon and onion flammekueche, or flaming tart, is an Alsatian favorite at Mintwood Place. (Matt McClain/For The Washington Post)

“Chocolate has no power over me -- or so I thought until I found myself sitting in front of the brownie sundae at Mintwood Place one night, attacking a tower of fudgy cake, homemade ice cream, whipped cream and candy sprinkles with my spoon until nothing remained but the smile on my face.” (Matt McClain/For The Washington Post)