Jose Andres at his America Eats Tavern. (By Bill O'Leary/The Washington Post)

Elsewhere in the section, Tom Sietsema checks out Salt and Pepper, a new restaurant in the Palisades that offers everyday American eats.

Martha Thomas samples the wares at Pita and Rye, a New York-style deli in Fulton, Md.

Dave McIntyre examines the way a down economy has effected what wine importers offer.

And Daniel Fromson looks at young Belgian beer makers who are bucking tradition by incorporating U.S. brewing styles.