Leah Perez, left, and Jane Lyons, co-owners of the Stix food truck, saw a need for food that can be eaten while walking down the street. All of their offerings are served on skewers. (Deb Lindsey/For The Washington Post)

Carman also visited the pedigreed Pizzeria da Marco in Bethesda and found a not-so delicious irony: Because the shop uses such fine quality fresh buffalo mozzarella — the real stuff from Campania has a higher water content — the center of the pies gets mushy. “Once out of the soup,” Carman writes, “you discover the truth about the pizzaiolo’s handcrafted work: These are flavorful pies.” But that’s about the only positive words he had for the place. See what he thought of the service.

Also in today’s Food section:

The sprout situation: do consumers need to freak out about safety of eating bean sprouts?

Former Food section writer Jane Black returns with a profile of Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams, founded in Columbus, Ohio, by former art student Jeni Britton Bauer. The scoop-shop entrepreneur shares a few of her secrets for homemade ice cream.

Bonnie Benwick surveys new cookbooks geared to seasonal and local eating – perfect for home cooks wondering what to do with their garden/CSA abundance this time of year.

In the wine column, Dave McIntyre writes about high-alcohol wines, and in the Spirits column, Jason Wilson looks at two approaches to a Pimm’s Cup.