Elsewhere in the section:
•Tom Sietsema was dissapointed by an early taste of Station 4.
•Jane Touzalin liked what she found at Parisian import Paul.
•Dave McIntyre wonders if Virginia wine producers will get a boost from a high-profile wine bloggers conference in Charlottesville.
•And Daniel Fromson examines the way single-hop brews allow drinkers to appreciate the differences between varieties of beer’s third-most important ingredient.