Chef Michael Harr uses corn in three ways for his scallop appetizer special ($13): charred, blended into a vinaigrette and covered in mold. Wait, what? It’s not as bad as it sounds. The edible fungus (called huitlacoche) is a Mexican delicacy and tastes earthy and woody.

Food Wine & Co., 7272 Wisconsin Ave., Bethesda; 301-652-8008, foodwineandco.com.

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