Here’s the best kind of cookbook moment: You open it, you see a recipe so appealing you have to make it, you try it, you love it, you add it to your repertoire.
For me, this wonderfully simple path to butter paneer is a little bit of both, but also kind of neither. I had heard of butter paneer but never tried it, even though my husband and I eat Indian food at least once a week. At our favorite two places, his go-to to-go order (say that five times fast) is butter chicken, mine dal makhani. I’ve ordered saag paneer plenty of times, and paneer korma, too, but even though butter paneer is a popular restaurant dish, I’ve never seen it on the menu at these spots, even under its aliases paneer makhani and paneer butter masala. This probably means I need to broaden my list of regular Indian takeout spots.
Now that Vina Patel has taught me how to make the dish, thanks to her cookbook “From Gujarat With Love,” do I even need to order it from a restaurant?
Probably not. Cooking it at home is just a matter of pureeing cashews with water, then simmering pan-fried paneer cubes in a sauce of the cashews, tomato puree, spices, butter and a touch of cream. The sauce is nothing short of beautiful, a perfect marriage of complex flavors that dance on your tongue. And even though the dish didn’t originate in Gujarat, the western Indian state where Patel is from, it shows off one of the principles of Gujarati cooking: “Our food is spicy, sweet and sour,” Patel says in a phone interview from her home in Saratoga, Calif. “We add sugar into each and every dish, and it really balances out the sour taste.”
In this case, it’s just a teaspoon, and even though I know I’ll hear about it from readers who hate to see even a pinch in anything, I stand by its place in this sauce. If you’re skeptical, make the sauce without it, taste, then add the sugar and taste the difference. I think you’ll agree, but if you don’t, you know what to do next time.
Ultimately, when you make anything yourself, you can customize, of course. That means vegan butter (I prefer Miyoko’s) and a nondairy cream alternative (look for Silk), if you follow a strictly plant-based diet, but what about the main ingredient?
When I asked Patel about substituting extra-firm tofu for the paneer, she tried it herself and reported that, while she doesn’t like it nearly as well as the paneer, it’s certainly suitable for any vegan cooks. Try asking for that in a restaurant!
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Serve with flatbread or rice.
Storage Notes: Leftovers can be refrigerated for up to 1 week.
Where to Buy: Paneer can be found in Indian markets and well-stocked supermarkets.
FOR THE CASHEW PUREE
- 1/2 cup (2 ounces) raw cashews
- 1/2 cup boiling water
FOR THE PANEER
- 4 tablespoons (2 ounces) unsalted butter (may substitute vegan butter), divided
- 8 ounces paneer, cut into 1-inch cubes (may substitute extra-firm tofu, drained and patted dry)
- 2 cups tomato puree
- 3/4 teaspoon chili powder
- 1/2 teaspoon garam masala
- 1/2 teaspoon paprika
- 1 cup water
- 1 teaspoon granulated sugar
- 3 tablespoons heavy cream (may substitute nondairy cream alternative, such as Silk brand)
- 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt or table salt, plus more to taste
- 1 teaspoon coarsely grated fresh ginger (optional)
- 5 slices red chile (optional)
Make the cashew puree: In a small bowl, combine the cashews and hot water. Let soak for 30 minutes, then transfer the mixture to a blender or mini food processor and puree until smooth.
Make the paneer: In a medium nonstick pan over medium heat, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter. Add the paneer and cook, turning the cubes occasionally, until light golden brown on at least two sides, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl.
Add the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter to the pan, and once it melts add the cashew puree. Cook, stirring, until the mixture is incorporated, then stir in the tomato puree, chili powder, garam masala and paprika. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture thickens, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the water and add the paneer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture darkens and oil rises to the surface, 5 to 7 minutes. (You might want to use a splatter guard here, as the bubbles tend to spit.) Stir in the sugar, cream and salt and cook just until the mixture is incorporated and heated through, 30 seconds. Taste, and season with more salt, if needed.
Garnish with ginger and chile slices, if using, and serve warm.
Per serving (1 cup)
Calories: 432; Total Fat: 34 g; Saturated Fat: 19 g; Cholesterol: 85 mg; Sodium: 385 mg; Carbohydrates: 19 g; Dietary Fiber: 3 g; Sugar: 10 g; Protein: 19 g
This analysis is an estimate based on available ingredients and this preparation. It should not substitute for a dietitian’s or nutritionist’s advice.
Adapted from “From Gujarat With Love” by Vina Patel (Pavilion, 2021).
Tested by Joe Yonan; email questions to firstname.lastname@example.org.
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