For the best Greek restaurant in town, you have to drive to Baltimore. The family-owned Black Olive prepares not only a fine, smoke-tinged rack of lamb and a world-class spinach pie, punctuated with melting feta and wrapped in homemade phyllo, but also fish and seafood that taste moments removed from the sea. Forget the ubiquitous Chilean sea bass and the common salmon. Here you get to choose from among whole red snapper, wild turbot, genuine Dover sole, sea bream, sardines from Portugal, maybe whole anchovies from Greece. Forget the menu, too. Part of the joy of dining in this taverna, cheerful in blue-and-white linens, is the chance to window-shop for dinner and take cues from your hosts. “Are you ready for your tour?” a server might ask before he escorts you to the open kitchen, fronted with a display case of ingredients that sparkle from their bed of ice. The cooks know that these pristine treasures need only a little time on the grill and perhaps a sauce of lemon juice, capers and olive oil to enhance their appeal. A thoughtful wine list keeps pace with the catch of the day, as do the appetizers -- don’t miss the bread pudding, savory with onions, artichokes and mushrooms. Of course there’s baklava. If you think all fruit plates are created equal, you haven’t seen the Black Olive’s glorious arrangement of mango, figs, blueberries and cherries, ready for a close-up in Martha Stewart Living.