Much like the brilliant fruit that gives this storefront dining room its name, Persimmon is tangy, sweet and not at all shy. There’s nothing subtle about ringlets of sauteed squid and diced tomato on a creamy puddle of rosemary-veined polenta, or a trio of big ravioli with a punchy blue cheese and mushroom filling and a dash of white truffle oil. Fried oysters are a house signature; their nubby coats are fired by wasabi, and the Asian theme is extended by a dipping sauce on the side. Nice as the golden crab cakes are, with their roasted corn salad, stuff from the turf tends to outshine stuff from the surf. The sage-scented grilled pork chop is very good, the barbecued rack of lamb showy and delicious, with a pecan crust and a mustard-tinged potato gratin alongside. The small space is loud at rush hour and in need of some design rethinking; at these prices, should we really have to look at bunches of fake flowers on the wall? Persimmon, the fruit, makes a cameo appearance only at dessert, in a lovely cheesecake.