“2000 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, please,” I instruct my cabdriver. “Kinkead’s!” he exclaims, identifying my destination as if it were a well-known monument. In a way, it is. The seafood restaurant created by chef Bob Kinkead in 1993 is a testament to the beauty of fresh fish and to American ingenuity; the menu even bills half a dozen long-running dishes -- among them grilled squid with tomato fondue on polenta, cod lavished with crab imperial, spoonbread and Virginia ham -- as “Kinkead’s classics.” While a wave of new places to eat around town kept me away for a long time, returning to this bustling, multi-level restaurant reminds me why the crowds continue to flock here. Chowder packed with creamy oysters, sweet corn, rich crab and Smithfield ham is a bowl I want to continue forever, and cornmeal-crisped flounder, great by itself, is rounded out with a chorus line of enhancers, including tender shrimp and a lemony crab ragout. Sauces tend to be robust, and presentations lean to the hearty. Admittedly, there are a few cracks in this picture -- distracted servers, a dated underground bar, dreary bread -- but they’re nothing that a platter of chilled oysters or a warm pecan tart can’t fix.