ANN ARBOR

A-squared, as locals call it, is a city on the cusp, like a student ready to graduate from classroom to cubicle. The mellow cousin to bigger, burlier Detroit — 50 miles to the west — Ann Arbor is the birthplace of Students for a Democratic Society and home of the annual Hash Bash. The Michigan burg’s blend of old-school and new, small-town and city, makes for constant contrasts. Not far from a stretch of solar-powered parking meters, chickens strut about the front yard of an old house with timber framework. Its lawn, awash in tiny blue squills, ends where new condominium construction begins. On a nearby corner, parents and toddlers line up outside an ice-cream shop where the flavors include blackberry Riesling, Vietnamese cinnamon and basil vanilla. While they wait, a caped man pedals past on a BMX bicycle, drumsticks in hand, beating a rhythm on the handlebars and singing “Give Peace a Chance.” Here, in the home of one of the country’s top-ranked public universities, just visiting is a double major in the classics and modernism.

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Local Faves

In late May and early June, 1Nichols Arboretum 1Nichols Arboretum Google Map: 1610 Washington Heights Website: peony.mbgna.umich.edu 734-647-7600 bursts into a swoon-worthy display of 300 peony plants. The annual pastel pageant — first opened to the public in 1927 — is North America’s largest public display of heirloom peonies. Visitors circulate among the ruffled blooms with a sort of reverence, appearing to bow as they bend to breathe in the sweet scent. Although the sprawling University of Michigan medical complex is close by, a visit to this 100-plus-acre tract of meadow, prairie, woods and gardens seems a natural prescription for good health.

The 2Argo Canoe Livery 2Argo Canoe Livery Google Map: 1055 Longshore Dr. Website: a2gov.org/departments/Parks-Recreation/parks-places/Pages/Argo.aspx 734-794-6240 offers the chance to fulfill my physical-education requirement, which is necessary after a weekend course of cafes, bars and bakeries. In season, the livery rents canoes, kayaks, rafts, tubes and stand-up paddleboards for use in the Huron River and Argo Pond. Hiking the linear, 22-acre park brings glimpses of wildflowers, waterfowl and happily wet dogs.

ANN ARBOR, MICHIGAN - APRIL 25: William Sanchesz, 16, left, and Aenea Kannan, 17 right, both of Ann Arbor, enjoy a sunny day in the entryway lawn of the Nichols Arboretum in Ann Arbor, Mich., on Tuesday, April 25, 2017. The 100-year old, 700 acre site offers a conservatory, trails, an an annually blooming Peony garden. (Photo by Brittany Greeson for The Washington Post)
ANN ARBOR, MICHIGAN - APRIL 26: Elizabeth Tolbert, a docent, leads a 3rd grade class from Emerson, a private school in Ann Arbor, in a study of the sculpture �Nydia, the Blind Flower Girl of Pompeii
7ANN ARBOR, MICHIGAN - APRIL 25: Linen ray, a local band, performs for a small audience at The Ark, a concert venue in downtown Ann Arbor, Mich., on Tuesday, April 25, 2017. The band performed as part of The Ark's

A couple enjoys a sunny day on the lawn at the Nichols Arboretum in Ann Arbor, Mich. The 100-plus-acre site offers a conservatory, trails and North America’s largest public display of heirloom peonies, set to bloom soon. Elizabeth Tolbert, a docent, shows “Nydia, the Blind Flower Girl of Pompeii,” a sculpture by Randolph Rogers, to a third-grade class from Emerson, a private Ann Arbor school. Linen Ray, a local musical duo, performs for the small, but attentive, audience at the Ark. The nonprofit venue, supported by volunteers and donations, has been hosting shows since 1965. (Brittany Greeson/For The Washington Post)

Guidebook Musts

3The Ark 3The Ark Google Map: 316 S. Main St. Website: theark.org 734-761-1818 lobby smells of popcorn and its hallways are a photographic gallery of greats who have played this intimate club that evokes Ann Arbor’s folkie roots. We sit just 10 feet from the stage for the Ben Daniels Band. (Ben is the son of actor Jeff Daniels, who lives and runs a regional theater company 22 miles west in Chelsea.) “Welcome to the best listening room in North America,” a staffer says as the house lights go down. Ken Yates opens the show, which includes an easy back-and-forth with the audience. Since 1965 (and through three locations), this nonprofit house — supported by members, donors and volunteers — has welcomed the likes of Pete Seeger, Joan Baez and Arlo Guthrie.

Steps away from the Gothic beauty of the UM Law Quadrangle and Frisbee-tossing students are the bronze doors of the pillared main entrance to the 4UM Museum of Art 4UM Museum of Art Google Map: 525 S. State St. Website: umma.umich.edu 734-764-0395 . The museum, which underwent a major expansion and restoration in 2009, is one of the oldest university collections in the country. Among its wide-ranging holdings is a significant collection of Central African pieces. In the airy Grand Hall, I’m struck by a large-format painting that hangs in poignant contrast to the surrounding context of higher learning. “The Attack on an Emigrant Train,” an 1856 work by Charles Ferdinand Wimar, depicts a violent clash between Native Americans and pioneers — a still-relevant history lesson in oil.

Eat

Local Faves

5Spencer 5Spencer Google Map: 113 E. Liberty St. Website: spencerannarbor.com 734-369-3979 owners Abby Olitzky, a San Francisco native, and Steve Hall, a local, offer a seasonal menu and a small wine-and-cheese pantry that is like a high-quality home kitchen. Arriving between lunch and dinner, we opted for chardonnay and a shared ploughman’s lunch board of cheese and charcuterie. I make a note to return for the more substantial menu items, such as rainbow trout with fennel salsa verde and chrysanthemum panna cotta. In summer months, Spencer supplies takeout picnic baskets.

The parking lot of 6Knight’s Steakhouse 6Knight's Steakhouse Google Map: 2324 Dexter Ave. Website: knightsrestaurants.com/ann-arbor 734-665-8644 begins filling up before 5 p.m. The Knight family’s food business dates to the 1952 opening of a small Ann Arbor market, which still operates in its original location. The steakhouse interior reflects the year it opened (1984), and oversize photographs depicting UM sports venues leave no doubt that you’re in “Go Blue” territory. Old-school is the rule, and seeing cottage cheese on the menu as a side dish is somehow deeply comforting. As I crunch an iceberg wedge with chopped bacon and blue cheese, I admire passing plates of steaks and French-dip sandwiches — along with Knight’s trademark stiff drinks.

7The Last Word Bar 7The Last Word Bar Google Map: 301 W. Huron St. Website: thelastwordbar.com thelastwordbar@gmail.com ’s cultivated air of mystery begins with the lack of a sign. Only a subtle wall plaque and red entry door mark the spot. The dark, below-street-level interior also lends a cloak of privacy. I’m a wine drinker, but a concoction called the Heist — gin, amaro, fresh lemon and honey syrup — was refreshing after a day of wandering. The food here is an unexpected treat. The tapenade trio and harissa-spiced lamb sliders are a sophisticated departure from typical bar fare. Look for live house jazz on Thursday nights.

ANN ARBOR, MICHIGAN - APRIL 25: Fiona Carey, 23, of Ann Arbor, assists a customer in making a selection of bread from the baked goods counter at Zingerman's Delicatessen in the Kerrytown District of Ann Arbor, Mich., on Tuesday, April 25, 2017. The speciality cafe has been in business for over 30-years and now features a wide selection of cheese, meat, olive oil and coffee. (Photo by Brittany Greeson for The Washington Post)
ANN ARBOR, MICHIGAN - APRIL 26: The Herold family share a toast at Spencer, a restaurant in downtown Ann Arbor, Mich., on Wednesday, April 26, 2017. The restaurant rotates it's menu weekly and also features a wide array of wines for pairing with meals or for purchase. (Photo by Brittany Greeson for The Washington Post)
ANN ARBOR, MICHIGAN -  APRIL 25: The Heist, a gin, honey and lemon drink is offered at Last Word Bar in Ann Arbor, Mich., on Tuesday, April 25, 2017. The bar sits just blocks away from downtown and is known for it's speak-easy style with no formal signage on it's building except for a small plaque. (Photo by Brittany Greeson for The Washington Post)

At the baked-goods counter of Zingerman’s Delicatessen, Fiona Carey, 23, helps a customer make a bread choice. The Herold family engages in a toast at Spencer. The restaurant has a seasonal menu and offers takeout picnic baskets in summer. The Heist, with gin, amaro, fresh lemon and honey syrup, is among the cocktail offerings at the Last Word Bar — if you can find it. (Brittany Greeson/The Washington Post) (Brittany Greeson/For The Washington Post)

Guidebook Musts

When Olympic swimming great Michael Phelps was at UM, he reportedly fed his training appetite at 8Angelo’s 8Angelo's Google Map: 1100 E. Catherine St. Website: angelosa2.com 734-761-8996 , where the breakfast of champions regularly draws a sidewalk queue. At this family-owned spot, in business since 1956, I resist the french toast and briefly feel smug for my self-restraint. But then the tower of house-made toasted raisin bread arrives with my eggs, and I happily coat the warm, buttered slices with the cinnamon sugar provided in shakers on every table.

At 9Zingerman’s Delicatessen 9Zingerman’s Delicatessen Google Map: 422 Detroit St. Website: zingermansdeli.com 734-663-3354 , along its brick street, the 1902 building and its classic awning and neon window sign are enticing. Once inside, the interior doesn’t disappoint. A wall of bread greets visitors. “Try anything you want,” says an affable guy standing beside the display of variously shaped loaves. So begins the sensory-overload path to the order counter. I sample the olive-oil bar and accept a proffered graham cracker topped with a dollop of lime curd. After ordering a grilled Reuben, I do manage to resist two appealing coffeehouse cakes: lemon sponge with caramelized meringue frosting and the traditional southern hummingbird.

Shop

Local Faves

Jazz sets a cool vibe while about two-dozen shoppers — from backpackers to graybeards — flip through albums at 10Encore Records 10Encore Records Google Map: 7417 E. Liberty St. Website: encorerecordsa2.com 734-662-6776 . Amid the customer questions about this or that recording, I overhear a conversation about the Oxford comma. This space has been a record shop since the 1960s and has operated under the name of Encore since the late ’80s. Rolling Stone magazine named it a top-25 U.S. record store in 2010; parts of “Standing in the Shadows of Motown” were filmed here. Groups playing Ann Arbor stop by — most recently, the Jayhawks.

I’m admiring the sock display at 11Sam’s 11Sam's Google Map: 207 E. Liberty St. Website: samsbasicclothes.com 734-663-8611 when a man walks in and runs his hand along a pair of pinwale corduroy Levi’s and says with a hint of reverence, “They still make these?” Sales clerk Lauren Houser says people mostly come in for the jeans, including classic 501 Levi’s. A wide selection of Converse All Stars (Chucks) is also a draw. Sam’s, in business since 1946, wears its throwback status proudly. Beside a display case of Swiss Army knives and Timex watches, Houser mans an old-school cash register. “We even have $2 bills,” she says, “because we still have a slot for that.”

ANN ARBOR, MICHIGAN - APRIL 26: Joseph Bigelow, 2, of Brooklyn, Mich., studies a pair of converse shoes at Sam's, a clothing retail store, in downtown Ann Arbor, Mich., on Wednesday, April 26, 2017. The store first opened 1946 and has been in it's location with a recognizable blue awning since the late 1960's. Today, it is family owned and managed. (Photo by Brittany Greeson for The Washington Post)
ANN ARBOR, MICHIGAN - APRIL 26: Staff reviews are posted for books in the poetry section of Literati, a bookstore in downtown Ann Arbor, Mich., on Wednesday, April 26, 2017.
ANN ARBOR, MICHIGAN - APRIL 25: Darlene Imus, of Ann Arbor, gazes at a full table of glassware at Treasure Mart, an antique consignment store in the Kerrytown District of Ann Arbor, Mich., on Tuesday, April 25, 2017. The store, owned by Elaine and Carl Johns, was started by Elaine's mother in 1960. It has since been a historical go-to with three floors and an outdoor patio full of items. (Photo by Brittany Greeson for The Washington Post)

Even little kids can get a pair of Chucks in their color at Sam’s, which specializes in the classic Converse footwear. Staff reviews, such as this one in the poetry section, are part of the personalized attention at Literati. Darlene Imus, of Ann Arbor, checks out glassware at the Treasure Mart in the city’s historic Kerrytown District. (Brittany Greeson/The Washington Post) (Brittany Greeson/For The Washington Post)

Guidebook Musts

12Literati 12Literati Google Map: 124 E. Washington St. Website: literatibookstore.com 734-585-5567 ’s narrow interior hugs customers like a good wingback chair. Shelf displays are personalized with cards offering handwritten staff recommendations. “This book is a love note to humanity,” Claire says of Max Porter’s “Grief is the Thing with Feathers.” On the second floor, tall, narrow windows illuminate the children’s books corner, and at the cafe counter, a barista helpfully divulges the name of the local pastry chef (Frankie) who supplies their carrot cake. Speaker events showcase newcomers and big names — Margaret Atwood and David Sedaris among them.

At 13the Treasure Mart 13The Treasure Mart Google Map: 529 Detroit St. Website: treasuremart.com 734-662-1363 , a 57-year old, second-generation, family-owned trove, I score four vintage, flower-print Tom Collins glasses and reluctantly leave a stack of Spode Rosebud Chintz bread plates behind. Inside the onetime planing mill (circa 1860s), shoppers fan out over three floors crammed with china, serveware, midcentury-modern furniture, vintage linens, art, fine and custom jewelry, sterling flatware and, yes, tchotchkes.

Stay

Local Fave

Mathematical equations scrawled in chalk on lobby columns briefly give me solving-for-X flashbacks at 14The Graduate Ann Arbor Hotel 14The Graduate Ann Arbor Hotel Google Map: 615 E. Huron St. Website: graduateannarbor.com 734-769-2200 , where the Midwestern university decor is anything but minimal. In appearance, academics are part of the equation. Look up, and there is bookshelf-patterned wallpaper on the ceiling. Walls at check-in are paneled in wooden yardsticks. Inside the main-floor Allen Rumsey Supper Club (named for Ann Arbor’s founders), an intimate eight-seat bar invites conversation, and we find ourselves chatting about the U.S. Olympic ski team. Sports is an apt topic here, where vintage athletic photos include a Michigan-uniformed Gerald Ford, who graduated from Wolverines football MVP to vice president and president of the United States.

ANN ARBOR, MICHIGAN - APRIL 25: The lobby of The Graduate hotel, which features a spiral staircase and detailed chalkboards, is seen in Ann Arbor, Mich., on Tuesday, April 25, 2017. The hotel, which opened just over a year ago, has over 200 rooms with it's design playing off of classic university decor. (Photo by Brittany Greeson for The Washington Post)
ANN ARBOR, MICHIGAN - APRIL 26: Stained glass lights a dim staircase at the Michigan League, which features the Inn at the League hotel, on the University of Michigan's campus in downtown Ann Arbor, Mich., on Wednesday, April 26, 2017. The historical site, established in 1929, features a ballroom, theatre, and numerous event rooms. (Photo by Brittany Greeson for The Washington Post)
ANN ARBOR, MICHIGAN - APRIL 26: People enjoy the afternoon in the entryway of the Michigan League, which features the Inn at the League hotel, on the University of Michigan's campus in downtown Ann Arbor, Mich., on Wednesday, April 26, 2017. The historical site, established in 1929, features a ballroom, theatre, and numerous event rooms. (Photo by Brittany Greeson for The Washington Post)

The ornate lobby of the Graduate Ann Arbor Hotel features a spiral staircase and decorated chalkboards. In a historic 1929 building, stained glass illuminates the dim staircase at the lobby level of the Inn at the League. (Brittany Greeson/The Washington Post) Appointments to the Inn at the League lobby include oak-and-walnut paneling as well as slate and Detroit-made Pewabic tiles. (Brittany Greeson/The Washington Post) (Brittany Greeson/For The Washington Post)

Guidebook Must

Being greeted by the sight of students studying in wood-paneled nooks rather than a phalanx of ready bellhops makes me feel as if I am arriving for my dorm assignment rather than a room for the night. But on the fourth floor of the university’s 15Inn at the League 15Inn at the League Google Map: 911 N. University Ave. Website: uunions.umich.edu/league/inn 734-764-3177 , there are, indeed, guest accommodations. My room has stucco walls and a view of the Albert Kahn-designed Burton Memorial Bell Tower (a 1936 campus landmark). The lobby level of this 1929 building is the star, with finishes of polished slate, Detroit-made Pewabic tiles and oak-and-walnut paneling, as well as a large stained-glass window in the stairwell.

Explore

Local Fave

Ann Arbor is a regular on annual lists of most-livable U.S. cities, publicity that makes residents protective of neighborhoods such as the 16Old West Side 16Old West Side Google Map: Between S. Main Street, RR tracks, W. Washington Street, Crest Avenue, Soule Boulevard, S. Seventh Street and Pauline Boulevard Website: oldwestside.org , which has German roots dating to the 1840s and is designated a National Historic District. Its near-downtown streets are a front-porch world of brightly painted wood siding and diverse architecture (from Victorian and Stick style to American Picturesque). The Washtenaw Dairy, founded in 1934, is a corner hot spot for ice cream, newspapers and doughnuts. (It delivers.) We take our treats to a corner booth beneath a TV tuned to “Good Times” and watch locals — from toddlers to old-timers — gab over some hand-scooped hardpack.

ANN ARBOR, MICHIGAN - APRIL 25: A woman browses an aisle of specialty pasta, olive oils and sauces at Sparrow Market within the Kerrytown Market and Shops in Ann Arbor, Mich., on Tuesday, April 25, 2017. The local business started out in meat retail before branching out into whole sale meats and specialty items. (Photo by Brittany Greeson for The Washington Post)
ANN ARBOR, MICHIGAN - APRIL 25: Stacks of cards and stationary are seen at Hollanders within the Kerrytown District in Ann Arbor, Mich., on Tuesday, April 25, 2017. The local business is said to be the largest selection of decorative paper in the Western world, owned by Tom and Cindy Hollander. (Photo by Brittany Greeson for The Washington Post)
ANN ARBOR, MICHIGAN - APRIL 26: Houses are seen lining the street in the Old West Side, a residential neighborhood, in Ann Arbor, Mich., on Wednesday, April 26, 2017. (Photo by Brittany Greeson for The Washington Post)

A customer browses an aisle full of specialty pastas, olive oils and sauces at Sparrow Market, inside the Kerrytown Market & Shops. The oldest building in its cluster of three dates to 1874. Hollander’s keeps a large selection of decorative paper and bookbinding supplies at its shop in the Kerrytown District. Examples of houses on a street in Ann Arbor’s Old West Side, which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. (Brittany Greeson/The Washington Post) (Brittany Greeson/For The Washington Post)

Guidebook Must

Boutiques, restaurants, bars and the Farmers Market populate the 17Kerrytown District 17Kerrytown District Google Map: 407 N. Fifth Ave. Website: kerrytown.com 734-662-5008 . Paul Tinkerhess, a folk singer who, with his wife, owns Fourth Ave Birkenstock, likes to talk up the locally owned businesses here, such as the longtime People’s Food Co-op — often run by hippie-era stalwarts and peace activists. Also here is Braun Court, a tiny enclave that includes Aut Bar, popular for its Mexican-themed Sunday brunch. At Kerrytown Market & Shops, inside a linked cluster of three buildings — the oldest dating to 1874 — are a vegan restaurant and shops offering women’s apparel and home decor. At Hollander’s, which sells decorative papers and bookbinding supplies, my affection for stationery and all things graphic meets its match and I want to get locked inside for the night.

Correction: An earlier version of this story stated that Ann Arbor is located east of Detroit. The city is west of Detroit. The story has been updated.

Rebecca Powers is a writer based in Detroit. Her website is RebeccaPowers.com.

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