Dads cook! So in honor of Father’s Day this Sunday, we present five fond reminiscences: Dianne Jacob cherishes a dented old egg poacher and memories of her dad’s love of eggs; Matthew Vita’s father nodded to his heritage with simple but memorable Italian food; Dudley Brooks’s career-military dad approached the grill and stove with soldierly precision; Matt Rennie’s father didn’t enjoy cooking but chose to make breakfast for his kids every single morning; and Tim Carman learned a thing or two by watching his perfectionist dad obsess over cinnamon toast.
There’s a lot more in Food this week — you do have washingtonpost.com/food bookmarked, right? — but let’s move along to today’s main event: the weekly Free Range chat. Got culinary questions or concerns? All topics are on the table, and if you have a food memory about your own father, feel free to share it. It all starts here at noon. I’ll kick things off with a leftover question from a previous chat:
My favorite bakery just betrayed me by starting to put caraway seeds into their formerly wonderful scalded rye bread, so I am looking for a good recipe to make my own. Theirs is dark and hearty, so I assume it’s rye and whole wheat. Googling hasn’t brought up much. Is there a cookbook I should look for?
I’ve made some bread in my time, but I have to admit that I’d never heard of scalded rye bread. So I hurried over to Google land and discovered that Scandinavia, Russia and some other places have a tradition of baking with scalded flour. It’s basically what it sounds like: Boiling, or nearly boiling, water is poured over flour; the flour is allowed to cool and then is used to make bread. The UK website Virtuous Bread explains the process very clearly here.
Now, why would anyone do such a thing? According to that site, “it turns out gorgeous bread. The crumb is soft and chewy as if there was a lot of fat in it and the flavour is sensational.”
I also turned to local author and bread baker Sam Fromartz, and he has a cookbook recommendation for you. But you’ll have to wait until September, when “The Rye Baker,” by Stanley Ginsberg, will hit the shelves. Meanwhile, you can peruse Ginsberg’s excellent blog at theryebaker.com, where he and others post recipes. I found three breads there that involve a scald: Deconstructed Saison Rye, Black Rye Bread and Moscow Rye.
Our own Recipe Finder doesn’t have a scalded rye recipe (yet). But we do have plenty of uses for rye bread, which will be to your advantage once you start making your own. Check out Smorgastarta; New Jersey Sloppy Joe; Asparagus and Aged Gouda Dip; Baltic Sprat, Roasted Cherry Tomato and Vodka Bruschetta; Spiced Chickpeas and Haricots Verts on Grilled Bread; Roasted Garlic Soup; Beet-Walnut Pâté; Quick Gravlax.