Food critic

The following review appears in The Washington Post's 2017 Fall Dining Guide.


Saucisse Lyonnaise is a pork and pistachio sausage with parsnip puree, green lentils, and sauce charcuterie at Chez Bill Sud in Georgetown. (April Greer/For The Washington Post)

Chez Billy Sud

(Good)

The opposite of see-and-be-seen Le Diplomate on 14th Street NW is this intimate spot in Georgetown. A nip in the air is the only excuse I need to book a table for garlicky Burgundian snails and buttery mushrooms spilling out of a tower of puff pastry that shatters on contact with the teeth. A change in seasons might also find me tucking into crisp, sliced duck on a bed of farro and wild rice, the richness of the entree countered by juicy orange segments and an underliner of carrot puree. Honestly, I visit as much for the feel of the bistro as for the taste. Low coffered ceilings, walls the shade of mint and a brick patio do as much to help a diner unwind as Lillet Blanc and a proper steak frites. Chez Billy Sud is nothing if not civilized.

2 stars

Chez Billy Sud: 1039 31st St. NW. 202-965-2606. chezbillysud.com.

Prices: Mains $9-$38.

Sound check: 77 decibels / Must speak with raised voice.

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