Dogfish Head SeaQuench Ale, a hybrid sour-gose brewed with black limes, lime peel and Chesapeake Bay sea salt. (From Dogfish Head Brewery)

Dogfish Head has unleashed a torrent of new beers this year: Romantic Chemistry IPA; Beer to Drink Music to, a tripel; Flesh & Blood IPA; Bière de Provence, a saison; and Alternate Takes #1 and #2, kicking off a series of “R&D beers.” And that doesn’t count all the reissues, such as Squall IPA, or the one-off beers that are available only at Dogfish Head’s Rehoboth Beach brewpub.

Until this month, the Chesapeake & Maine seafood restaurant in Rehoboth was the only place to find Dogfish Head’s SeaQuench Ale, an odd and delicious hybrid of a sour ale and gose. As Dogfish founder Sam Calagione tells it, SeaQuench Ale is made by brewing a relatively straightforward German-style kölsch and putting it in a fermentation tank. Dogfish then brews a gose with black limes and sea salt and adds it to the same tank. Finally, a Berliner weisse with lime juice and lime peel is added to the tank, and the three “threads” are blended during fermentation.

The result is a thirst-quenching beer that doesn’t fit neatly into any category. It has the tart characteristics of a Berliner weisse, the mellow, wheaty body of a kölsch or hefeweizen and the briny finish of a gose. But there’s a strong lemon on the nose, and black limes and bitter citrus in the body, none of which are usually found in these beers.

The flavors are bound together in a way that’s balanced instead of chaotic, and the citrus and moderately dry, tart finish make it easy to drink in the dog days of summer.

Fritz Hahn

Dogfish Head SeaQuench Ale. www.dogfish.com. $11 to $12 per six-pack.