Suburban Beverage from Perennial Artisan Ales. (Dixie D. Vereen/For The Washington Post)

Gose is not for everyone.

The refreshing wheat beer, identified by its distinct salinity from the use of salt and coriander, and soured with lactobacillus, has been brewed in Germany since at least the Middle Ages, but it remains largely a novelty and cult beer around the world. That is slowly changing: When we took a survey of beer writers, brewers and bar managers this summer, the Old Pro Gose from Baltimore’s Union Craft Brewing was one of the most popular choices for drinking on a warm day.

Suburban Beverage, a limited-release gose from St. Louis’s Perennial Artisan Ales, isn’t a traditional recipe, like the imported Bayerischer Bahnhof Gose from Leipzig, Germany: It’s made with key limes, Meyer lemons and orange peel. The result is sharply tart, full of tangy fruit, with a heavy dash of salt in the finish — closer to a margarita than any other wheat beers commonly found on tap.

It’s bright and thirst-quenching, and a bit quirky: Because the hops are almost unnoticeable, you could easily pass Suburban Beverage to that friend who says, “Oh, I prefer cocktails to beer.”

But it’s definitely a beer, and miles ahead of those Lime-A-­Rita-ish concoctions inflicted on the public.

In the Washington area, all bottles of Suburban Beverage have already been distributed to bars and stores, but expect to see it on tap at better beer bars, at least for the next few weeks.

Perennial Artisan Ales Suburban Beverage. www.perennialbeer.­com. Expect to pay $7 to $10 for a 10-to-12-ounce pour in bars, or $15 to $16 for a 750-milliliter bottle in stores.

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