The Cowboy Ribeye at BLT Steak in Washington. (Deb Lindsey/For The Washington Post)

GOOD

The following review appears in The Washington Post’s 2016 Spring Dining Guide.

Know before you go: The hot, baseball-size popovers can torpedo your appetite if you’re not careful; the Caesar bests the chopped salad; specials are spotty; and the bone-in rib-eye and dry-aged New York strip emerge from BLT’s 1,700-degree broiler as equals (both are excellent). Also, as long as you’re splurging, you might as well throw in a tower of crisp onion rings and a puffy crepe souffle for dessert. Oh, and here’s the place to admire Dover sole — the genuine article, thick and subtly sweet — and hope someone else is picking up the check. Priced like prime steak, the delicacy costs (gulp) $61. BLT made a splash when it launched nine years ago with bare tables, a female sommelier and celebrity initials (star chef Laurent Tourondel has since left the bistro empire). The steakhouse continues to woo customers not just with good beef, including American wagyu, but watchful service. So why won’t I go after 6 o’clock? The roar of the crowd keeps this carnivore at bay.

Previous: Bistro L’Hermitage | Next: Boss Shepherd’s

2 stars

1625 I St. NW. 202-689-8999. bltrestaurants.com .

Open: Lunch Monday through Friday, dinner Monday through Saturday.

Prices: Lunch entrees $19 to $59, dinner entrees $32 to $92.

Sound check: 87 decibels / Extremely loud.

Previously (2007): 2.5 stars