Food critic

The following review appears in The Washington Post's 2017 Fall Dining Guide.

Buck’s serves up good food — like a prime beef burger on a homemade sesame bun with twice-cooked french fries — in a comfortable, neighborhood setting. (Deb Lindsey /For The Washington Post)

Buck's Fishing & Camping


Because when a food critic needs a break from tasting menus and nasturtium petals, Buck's comes to the rescue with familiar American comforts — cornmeal-fried oysters, a prime beef hamburger on a house-baked bun — done very well. Because the communal table that runs down the center of the arty dining room is the design equivalent of a group hug. Because the head waiter, Nour eddine Bouzerda, whom I've known for years, understands my tastes as well as I do and plays upset when I get back from a trip and it's not his native Morocco. Because the buttermilk chocolate cake tastes like the fantasy version of my mom's. Because we all crave a place where we can let our hair down.

Buck's Fishing & Camping: 5031 Connecticut Ave. NW. 202-364-0777.

Prices: Mains $15-$39.

Sound check: 75 decibels / Must speak with raised voice.

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The center communal table in the dining room is like a group hug. (Deb Lindsey /For The Washington Post)

The buttermilk chocolate cake with whipped cream tastes like home for Tom Sietsema. (Deb Lindsey /For The Washington Post)