The following review appears in The Washington Post’s 2017 Fall Dining Guide.
Buck’s Fishing & Camping
Because when a food critic needs a break from tasting menus and nasturtium petals, Buck’s comes to the rescue with familiar American comforts — cornmeal-fried oysters, a prime beef hamburger on a house-baked bun — done very well. Because the communal table that runs down the center of the arty dining room is the design equivalent of a group hug. Because the head waiter, Nour eddine Bouzerda, whom I’ve known for years, understands my tastes as well as I do and plays upset when I get back from a trip and it’s not his native Morocco. Because the buttermilk chocolate cake tastes like the fantasy version of my mom’s. Because we all crave a place where we can let our hair down.
Buck’s Fishing & Camping: 5031 Connecticut Ave. NW. 202-364-0777. bucksfishingandcamping.com.
Prices: Mains $15-$39.
Sound check: 75 decibels / Must speak with raised voice.