Classic Egg Salad. (Deb Lindsey/FOR THE WASHINGTON POST)

I ate egg salad sandwiches with my Grandma Lilly at various local department store tea rooms a mountain of years ago. I love them still, though the kind I build today look a lot less trimmed, pale and polished. They are open-faced, perhaps with a liner of leafy greens and herbs, and topped sometimes with a crackle of nuts or seeds.

There are endless options for delivery of the finished salad. Bake a quick bread to use as the base for a big, creamy swipe of the savory salad. Or a simple slice of soda bread, tender inside and crusty on the edges. Or go green, with a bed of baby arugula or spinach, radicchio, mizuna or watercress.

Egg salad is largely amenable to many flavor boosts, and the accompanying recipe include several variations. But honestly, the fairly pure version is charming on its own.

Cookbook author Yockelson blogs at On Twitter: @sweetpinkbaker.