Years ago, I read a technique for cooking sunny-side-up eggs in a way that resulted in tender whites without any of those crispy edges the writer found so troublesome.
I had one reaction: Why on Earth would you want to do that? Those edges are my favorite part of a fried egg, and I’ve always loved how they combine with a runny yolk to create such a satisfying combination of textures. When I was growing up in West Texas, my mother would fry eggs in bacon grease scooped out of a little can she kept on her stove, and to this day the smell of those ingredients together will take me back to my childhood like nothing else.
The first time I went to Spain, I realized there was an even better way: to fry eggs in even more fat — this time, olive oil. They puff up and get lacy and browned in seconds, leaving the yolk still runny (if you pull them out quickly enough, that is) but creating even more of those caramelized edges.
They’re a natural match for one of my favorite spring recipes: quickly broiled asparagus spears with what I have dubbed “romesco blanco.” It’s an ivory-colored version of the classic Spanish romesco sauce, made with almonds and bread and olive oil and vinegar — plus salsa verde instead of the standard tomatoes or red peppers, along with a kick of mint.
Once the egg is broken and the yolk runs, though, another color gets added to the mix: amarillo, through and through.