The following review appears in The Washington Post’s 2017 Spring Dining Guide.


Red prawns at Perry's Restaurant. (Dixie D. Vereen/For The Washington Post)

(Satisfactory/Good)

It’s hard to believe this Asian restaurant shares the same owner as Mintwood Place. The businesses are next-door neighbors but miles apart in terms of how they conduct themselves. “Do you have a reservation?” a blank-faced host asks at the top of Fuji-high stairs, a sea of empty tables in the background. When we ask if we can transfer a drink order from bar to table, the drinks mixer bluntly says, “separate accounts.” Alrighty then! The nigiri is very good here, the rolls slightly less so, and if you ordered only skewers, you’d leave wanting to return; sliced hanger steak and chicken thighs dipped in green tea salt both rock. The food comes out as it’s ready, so be prepared to catch your whole fried flounder — scrawny fish all but buried in herbs — ahead of your pickled mushroom salad. The happiest memory from recent visits has been the egg-topped, garlicky mushroom fried rice, with bursts of heat from yuzukosho, the condiment fueled with chile peppers, yuzu peel and salt. Perry’s still entertains us with a drag brunch and a rooftop deck, but a wave of solid new Asian eateries around town has eyes and stomachs wandering.

Previous: Patowmack Farm | Next: Pizzeria Paradiso

1 1/2 stars

1811 Columbia Rd. NW. 202-234-6218. perrysam.com.

Open: Dinner daily, brunch Sunday.

Prices: Large dinner plates $14 to $26, brunch buffet $25.95.

Sound check: 68 decibels / Conversation is easy.

Previously (2013): 2 stars