Food critic

The following review appears in The Washington Post’s 2017 Spring Dining Guide.


The Atomic Pizza is ignited with salami, olives and chile flakes — just one of a slew of reliable pies at this Dupont Circle institution. (Dixie D. Vereen/For The Washington Post)

(Good)

Consistency, thy name is Pizzeria Paradiso. To eat the tuna bean salad or the Atomica pizza today is to taste what it was like to eat in the dining room, dressed for coziness in wood floors and brick walls, when the Dupont Circle eatery was among the first to offer Neapolitan-style pies. That salad is a refreshing mini-meal of glossy white beans, fish, celery and red onion; the aforementioned pie — ignited with salami, olives and chile flakes — also benefits from a raised lip, a few craters and agreeable char. Kudos to owner Ruth Gresser for raising the bar for pizza parlors over the years (a great beer program) while hanging on to the things that keep us coming back (to branches in Georgetown and Alexandria as well as home base). For old time’s sake, I finished a recent meal at Paradiso with chocolate “salami” veined with pistachios. Five bucks for a trip down memory lane? I’m in.

Previous: Perry’s | Next: Red Hen

2 stars

2003 P St. NW. 202-223-1245. eatyourpizza.com.

Open: Lunch and dinner daily.

Prices: Pizzas $13 to $21.

Sound check: 75 decibels / Must speak with raised voice.