The trio behind Tail Up Goat in Adams Morgan recently opened Reveler’s Hour around the corner, and if you enjoy the former, you’re going to applaud the latter.

“We’re doubling down on the things we really love,” says Jill Tyler, the service manager at both establishments. The focus at their spinoff, then, is wine (60 or so by the glass, selected by beverage director Bill Jensen); snacks and housemade pastas whipped up by executive chef Jon Sybert; and a noticeably looser feel than Tail Up Goat. The effervescent Tyler greets diners at the door with a wide smile and sporting a T-shirt.

Jensen, an avid consumer of poetry, was tasked by his business partners with naming the newcomer. He drew on a line from an ancient Greek drinking song, translated by Irish bard Thomas Moore (1779-1852). The restaurant, darker than Tail Up Goat, opens with a handsome bar and continues with a dining room made sleek with green tile floors, skinny chandeliers and displays of wine.

My first taste is liquid and lovely: sherry, rye and Grand Marnier fuel the elegant “Up-To-Date” cocktail. My second sample has me pushing it away. Thick potato chips planted in bland mashed potatoes translate to unfortunate “chips & dip.” The snack makes me regret not ordering instead grilled oysters spiked with garlic butter and hot sauce.

Sybert’s small plates yield serious pleasures. Skinny skewers of crisp-edged pork on a swirl of honey hinting of fish pepper? Sold. Scallops seared in a wood fire and nestled with shaved celery and mouth-puckering kumquat? Gone in a flash, though for $16, I expected more than three bites of seafood. One of winter’s most appealing salads combines radicchio and kale with crisp-chewy croutons and a creamy dressing made bold with anchovies.

I look forward to eating my way through the chef’s wonderful pastas, cooked to retain some welcome resistance. Right now I can vouch for bucatini scattered with sweet minced onions, pork jowl and garlic-lit bread crumbs, and twisty casarecce combined with pleasantly chewy little Sea Island red peas and chopped collards, smoky from their pass over the wood grill.

I anticipate bellying up to the bar for more of the beverage director’s picks, too. Jensen says his “wanderlust” influences his current library, a collection that’s expected to change seasonally but now embraces overlooked reds from Provence, lesser-known varietals from California, picks from central Italy and the work of friends. See: syrah from veteran restaurateur Peter Pastan, the muse behind Two Amys.

Tail Up Goat is tucked away on a quiet residential street. Reveler’s Hour unfolds on a commercial stretch, resulting in more foot traffic and what Tyler calls “new neighbors,” including young parents with noodle-loving kids in tow.

The vibes are different. The thing they both (already) share: big fan clubs.

1775 Columbia Road NW. 202-588-1616. Pastas, $18 to $24.

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