The following review appears in The Washington Post’s 2016 Spring Dining Guide.
Strolling into this Neapolitan subscriber after too much time away, I’m struck by how familiar it all seems: the spare yellow dining room crowded with families, the wood bar with its tall tables and hanging meats, the frantic ding! ding! ding! of a kitchen bell alerting servers to a ready-and-waiting pizza. The crusts are as I remember them: thin, crisp, nicely charred in spots — bread you could eat on its own. But a topping of pale crumbled sausage, ramps and artichokes was vague enough for us to request anchovies for reinforcement. A menu category called “Little Things” still yields contentments, including salt cod croquettes, big as golf balls and best eaten with a spritz of lemon. But a bunch of rapini awash in vincotto, or “cooked wine,” made for a sadly sweet salad. Better: smoky swordfish belly arranged in ribbons over a minted green sauce, one of the many small plates on the specials list. “Save room for dessert,” urges our bartender, an amazing juggler of beers, wines, cocktails — and recommendations — in the back room. Strawberry shortcake lets us follow some misses with a hit. Ultimately, Two Amys feels like the good old days more than it tastes like them.
→3715 Macomb St. NW. 202-885-5700. 2amysdc.com.
Open: Lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday, dinner Monday.
Prices: Pizzas $9 to $15.
Sound check: 90 decibels / Extremely loud.
Previously (2009): 2.5 stars