Columnist David Hagedorn prepares heritage chicken from Evensong Farm three ways using Cornish Cross Chicken, left, and Poulet Rouge Chicken, right. (Katherine Frey/THE WASHINGTON POST)

Per the Maryland Department of Agriculture, fresh chickens may be sold within five days of slaughter, provided they have been brought to 41 degrees within four hours of slaughter and held at 41 degrees or below. After five days, they must be frozen and held at zero degrees or below.

Julie Stinar of Evensong Farm in Sharpsburg, Md., sells fresh chicken via a chicken buying club (see her Web site for details) or by special order. “I only bring frozen birds to the farmers market because of my own food safety neuroses,” she says. “I don’t want to handle a raw product, even in bags, while I am also handling fresh-cut herbs. There is just too much risk, even if I try to be as careful as possible. It isn’t a ‘good management practice.’ ”

Stinar’s chickens are available:

* At FreshFarm Market Silver Spring (Ellsworth Drive between Fenton Street and Georgia Avenue) on Saturdays, 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. April to December, 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. January to March.

* At FreshFarm Market at Health and Human Services, 200 Independence Ave. SW, on Wednesdays, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. May 18 to Oct. 26.

* By appointment at Evensong Farm, 18502 Burnside Bridge Rd., Sharpsburg, 301-491-2224.

For delivery by appointment to Kensington, contact Evensong Farm via e-mail: julie@evensong-farm.com.

Follow Evensong Farm at www.evensong-farm.com and on Facebook.