The Hangtown fry on the brunch menu at Woodward Table in Washington. (Deb Lindsey /For The Washington Post)

The following review appears in The Washington Post’s 2016 Spring Dining Guide.

The youngest in a family of establishments from restaurant honcho Jeff Buben, this sibling to Vidalia and Bistro Bis has emerged as the cream of the crop after an uneven launch. Just taste the efforts of new chef Eddie Moran and tell me otherwise. If you’re looking for a meal downtown that’s stimulating but not shocking, Woodward Table flashes a green light. Asparagus soup is precisely that, a pale green puree dotted with crab for sweetness and dappled with lemon creme fraiche for contrast. But gathered on the menu of lamb tartare, crab cakes and flatbreads crisped from a wood fire is also Gulf red snapper that channels Asia and India with red curry, black rice, coconut and shards of papadum. Whereas the opening chef relied on a lot of meat, Moran, late of Food Wine & Co. in Bethesda, champions vegetables. A thick-cut cauliflower “steak” served on quinoa with green beans and pistachios practically pulses with preserved lemon and chermoula vinaigrette. Brunch brings an eye-popping, rib-sticking Hangtown fry (oyster-bacon omelet) striped with remoulade. Dessert would be improved by a fully constructed carrot cake. (The building blocks taste fine; I just don’t want to bother with their assembly.) Throw in a swell staff, and you’ve got a newly distinctive restaurant downtown.

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2.5 stars

→1426 H St. NW. 202-347-5353. woodwardtable.com.

Open: Lunch Monday through Friday, dinner daily, brunch Saturday and Sunday.

Prices: Lunch and brunch $14 to $23, dinner $14 to $58.

Previously (2013): 2 stars