Beef fat fries and the gin-based “Love Street” cocktail at B Side in the Mosaic District. (Kate Patterson/For The Washington Post)

B Side

One of many excuses to scope out the ever-jazzier Mosaic District, B Side has emerged as my favorite watering hole in the sprawl. As you might expect of an outfit that sells leaf lard (at butcher shop Red Apron) on the other side of the wall, the list at B Side reads as if it had been written by a meatpacker rather than the Neighborhood Restaurant Group.

Instead of chicken wings, the appetizers (B-Small) include pig wings, knobby hot-sauced pork spare ribs cooled off by their blue cheese dip, and “ranch” pork rinds with the flavor of Funyuns. Make room on the table for one of Red Apron’s rockin’ house-made meats, maybe wild boar pâté seasoned with coriander and apricots, best slathered on the house-baked bread rippled from a panini press. Forge on to a beef burger stacked high with pulled pork, red cabbage slaw and smoky aioli or to roasted beef shoulder meant to be eaten in the folds of butter lettuce with pickled onions and Greek yogurt: Mom’s roast beef, packaged for 2015. The pork schnitzel is golden but dry, the perfect excuse to polish off a side of beef fat fries tossed with rosemary and garlic.

The chartreuse-colored bar lets you drink as well as you graze. Cue more than 100 bottles of beer on the wall, wines curated by one of the area’s best sommeliers and top-drawer drinks named for B-side songs.→

2 stars

B Side: 8298 Glass Alley, Fairfax, Va. 703-676-3550. .

Open: Dinner daily, lunch weekends.

Prices: Dinner $10 to $22.

Sound check: 69 decibels / Conversation is easy.

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