The following review appears in The Washington Post’s 2017 Spring Dining Guide.
Mindful restaurants let you know what time of year it is by what they put on their plates. Check out Blue Duck Tavern, where the spring fashions include sweet day-boat scallops arranged on a bright pea puree, shot through with lemon grass and punched up with pickled ramps. Chef de cuisine Brad Deboy has some clever ideas on his latest menu, none more fun than the BLF, a twist on a BLT. This being a restaurant with aspirations, that means hot smoked, brown sugar-cured Iberico pork belly, gem lettuce hearts and a terrine of foie gras and poached lobster that diners eat with croissants baked in-house and apple moutarde. Divine. Count me a fan of his plump soft-shell crab, too, anchored in black garlic and sporting a barbecue tang. Deboy spent three years cooking at the late Vidalia, hence the Southern accents here and there, although the tavern’s crab hush puppies prove heavy as golf balls. There are other lapses: What sounds like a smash — confit lamb neck with house-made yogurt and marinated feta — leaves me cold; the entree’s pita is brittle and bland, its charred cucumbers seemingly there more for color than flavor. Could someone bring me a cushion for the stiff bench seating near the window? This expanse of bare wood in the West End ranks among the noisiest of fine-dining rooms. But kindly touches abound: a selection of four newspapers in a basket at the host stand, a stinging apple-flavored margarita, an elegant shoofly pie for dessert. I’ll take one of each, please.
2 1/2 stars
1201 24th St. NW. 202-419-6755.blueducktavern.com
Open: Breakfast and dinner daily, lunch Monday through Friday, brunch weekends.
Prices: Breakfast entrees $17 to $22, lunch entrees $20 to $38, dinner entrees $20 to $48, brunch entrees $16 to $32.
Sound check: 73 decibels / Must speak with raised voice.
The following review was originally published in The Washington Post’s 2015 Spring Dining Guide.
Ryan LaRoche slipped into some big clogs when he replaced Sebastien Archambault in this warm-in-wood dining room with the visible kitchen in the Park Hyatt. My meals shortly after the newcomer’s September arrival from Chicago, where he cooked at the trendy NoMi Kitchen, tasted as if LaRoche were playing it safe. But as winter segued to spring, he unleashed some bright ideas while staying true to the rustic American theme.
Bean soup was poured over a pretty shrimp salad jazzed up with jalapeño and cilantro. Hake got tiled in potato slices and encircled by a moat of buttery chive sauce. In April, the choices, like the cherry trees, blossomed. Chicken-fried wild quail dappled with red pepper relish? Finger-lickin’ good. Braised rabbit in a bundle of tagliatelle? Smoked carrots make an inspired addition. Pea salad tossed with spiced nuts and preserved lemon on house-made ricotta is a head-turner and a crowd-pleaser.
Nowhere else have I had head cheese (head cheese in a hotel!) served as elegantly; the braised pork parts are formed into a cake with mustard seeds and gelatin, breaded, seared on the plancha, then set on creamy aioli and crowned with frisee. Salmon, in contrast, is fine, most interesting for its morels swollen with “butter we make ourselves,” says a dutiful server.
The restaurant’s entrance entices customers to order dessert even before they see a menu; wisely, the designer put the pastry station near the door, where dozens of apple tarts seem to stand, fork-ready, no matter the time of day. Think fruit for dessert. Spring brings tart cherries under a crust with a scoop of house-churned vanilla ice cream. Bananas huddle in a pie with a chocolate-brushed crust and an igloo of soft balls of whipped cream freckled with shaved chocolate. Eyes (and belts) pop at the mere sight.
From the first sip of a hand-crafted cocktail to the last bite of lavender-chocolate bark, Blue Duck Tavern excels in great taste.