No one-trick pony, the restaurant checks off a number of boxes. Its hamburger is a tower of juicy Oregon beef and glossy toasted bun; its desserts run to such lovelies as floating island; and if you’re looking for privacy, this charmer, renovated two years ago, offers spaces in three sizes, my favorite of which is the tall, 10-seat chef’s table in the rear.
2.5 stars (Good/Excellent)
Et Voila!: 5120 MacArthur Blvd. NW. 202-237-2300. etvoiladc.com.
Open: Dinner daily, lunch Tuesday through Friday, brunch weekends.
Prices: Dinner mains $19-$36.
Sound check: 73 decibels / Must speak with raised voice.