At Mintwood Place in Adams Morgan, chef Cedric Maupillier doesn’t skimp on richness, even when a dish focuses on kale, darling of the superfood-loving set. How does he transform a bitter leafy green into something indulgent? First, he breaks out the fryer, turning the kale crispy, glossy and irresistible. (These are no crumbly chips.) He pairs it with the molten chocolate cake of cheeses, the pork belly of the lacto-vegetarian crowd: burrata.
Maupillier’s cooking is hardly one-note; he cuts through the fat with welcome tartness in the form of a quick tamarind dressing and cubes of tangy apple. Possibly best of all: The appetizer spans the seasons.
“My local farm grows kale all year round, so the dish is not going anywhere as long as people are still enjoying it,” the chef says. By that definition, it may well be on the menu forever.
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