(Photograph by Renee Comet; styling by Bonnie S. Benwick)

As anyone with a gluten or wheat intolerance can attest, not all professional efforts aimed in that direction are worth revisiting. Yet the hours of R&D spent at Willow have paid off in mouthwatering ways.

“We try to come up with something different every week,” say chef Tracy O’Grady and co-owner and pastry chef Kate Jansen, who, along with partner Julie Mounts, produce remarkable GF savories, breads and sweets for the Ballston restaurant and under the umbrella of Wheatless by Willow.

O’Grady’s quinoa cakes could be a poster child for their project: filling without being dense, studded with bits of sauteed vegetables, kept moist inside with goat cheese.

Recipe: Crispy Quinoa Cakes