This review appears in The Washington Post’s 2015 Fall Dining Guide.
G by Mike Isabella
By day, it’s the sunny source of heroic sandwiches eaten to a rock beat. (My current fixation: baby goat and lemony potatoes packed into a sturdy sesame seed roll and knocked back with pineapple-lemon grass soda.) By night, this sibling to the adjoining Kapnos extends one of the area’s premier dining deals, courtesy of a four-course, $40 tasting menu that’s so polished, you overlook the fact you’re sitting in a hard wooden booth in the company of a bunch of cartoon vegetables on the wall.
G’s antipasto board alone would be worth the price of admission, composed as the slab is with foie gras mousse with grilled grapes and golden hamachi fritters, among other quickly inhaled nibbles. A bundle of pasta with shaved bottarga and fiery chilies followed by grilled cauliflower “steak” with diamonds of fried potato and purple cauliflower romesco remind me what a gem the scene has in chef de cuisine Elliot Drew, 32, a veteran of three Marc Vetri restaurants in Philadelphia.
Too much food for you? Everything can now be ordered a la carte. G could very well stand for “gracious.”
G by Mike Isabella: 2201 14th St. NW. 202-234-5015. www.gbymikeisabella.com.
Open: Sandwich shop open for lunch daily, dinner Wednesday through Saturday, Sunday gravy dinner.
Prices: Sandwiches $9 to $13, dinner entrees $9 to $26, dinner tasting menu and prix fixe Sunday gravy $40.
Sound check: 72 decibels / Must speak with raised voice.
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