This review appears in The Washington Post’s 2015 Fall Dining Guide.


Every course at Volt, including dessert, displays an impeccable attention to detail. (Scott Suchman/For The Washington Post)

Volt

One of my biggest fears is writing a rave, then watching a restaurant cook on cruise control. Volt hasn’t gone that route. Under Scott Muns, former chef de cuisine of Rose’s Luxury, the restaurant initiated by owner Bryan Voltaggio continues to delight and surprise. Corn soup is borrowed from Mexican street vendors, a liquid version of charred, cheese-sprinkled corn-on-the-cob to which this kitchen adds guajillo peppers and cilantro oil for verve. A great bowl of pasta chittara with tomatoes and rock shrimp takes the tongue by surprise with a finish of minty shiso. Stranger-sounding still is arctic char, floating on watermelon juice and garnished with its dried skin. Yet every element — the sweet-and-sour base spiked with arbol chili, the fish cooked in olive oil, the crackling chip — makes perfect sense in the eating. Ever try a white pinot noir? The sommelier can introduce you. Deconstructed desserts are passe, but that didn’t stop me from scarfing down moist Black Forest cake. If you can’t score a table in the dining room, sit at the bar, where the whole menu is available a la carte and the amenities — an apple macaron stuffed with foie gras mousse, amazing biscuits and brioche — reflect a delicious fashion sense. →

3 stars

Volt: 228 N. Market St., Frederick, Md. 301-696-8658. www.voltrestaurant.com.

Open: Dinner Tuesday through Sunday, weekend brunch.

Prices: Dinner entrees $13 to $30 or $95 tasting menu, brunch tasting menus $35 or $55.

Sound check: 60 decibels / Conversation is easy.

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