Turkish Airlines offers one-stop flights from Dulles to Irbil in Kurdistan starting at about $2,400 round trip.
This five-star luxury hotel opened in February. Rooms from $199.
A more modestly priced option with large, clean, modern rooms and a friendly atmosphere. Rooms from $110.
Its claims to be Iraq’s first spa hotel don’t quite meet expectations, but it has a glorious blue-tiled traditional hamam (communal bath) in the basement and clean, spacious, modern rooms. From $165.
In the Rotana Hotel, real Italian food and wine. A meal is about $60 a person.
There are no street addresses in Irbil, but tell a taxi driver to take you to the Awo (Today) restaurant, and you’ll find the Fisherman next door, with the fish you’ll eat swimming in a tank outside. Serves the Baghdad specialty masgouf, or flame-grilled carp, fished out of the Tigris in Baghdad and transported in a water tank along still perilous roads to Kurdistan.
Great Wall of China
Authentic Chinese food on Salam Street.
Or stop at any of the many kebab restaurants for the local specialty.
Open sunrise to sunset. Free.
At the foot of the citadel, this traditional eastern bazaar offers exotic shopping opportunities, including a wide assortment of kitsch. Open early morning to midafternoon.
Red Security Building
Will open when visitors arrive; tell the guards at the gate that you want to go in and they will call a guide to show you around. Free.
Open daily. Free.