One in a series on the clothes that had a moment at New York Fashion Week.
NEW YORK — There are a lot of white shoes on the runway for fall 2018. Not winter white or beige or ivory, but chalk white. This is not aesthetically bad. And this is not a new occurrence. But this time around it feels different. It no longer looks like a styling flourish or a fun play of opposites and contrasts — like white sandals and wool skirts —but rather a signal that we have finally given in and declared seasons obsolete.
This may be a meteorological truth, but it still shocks the system. Shoes: the ultimate sign that nature has gone haywire.
Jason Wu paired white shoes with black sheer nylons and filmy dresses. He paired them with grass-green trousers. As the models strolled past pillars of bright flowers, the runway looked worrisomely like spring. But one could still shrug and go, meh.
But over at Tory Burch’s show? Oh, boy.
Burch presented her collection in the landmark market under the Queensboro Bridge. Beneath the vaulted tile ceiling, landscapers laid sod and very carefully planted individual pink carnations, stem by stem, throughout the entire massive space. The field of carnations was inspired by choreographer Pina Bausch’s “Nelken,” which features a similar expanse of blossoms. Live musicians serenaded the audience as the models strolled the man-made flower patch in sheer white dresses, pink floral ones and an expression that said either, “Isn’t summer time lovely?” or “What is going on here?”
But right there in the program, it’s all very clear: This is for fall 2018.
Retail schedules are being turned upside down. Designers show things in season and out of season. But this was a fall collection, and here were lush flowers and filmy white dresses and white shoes. (Eventually nubby coats and sweaters made an appearance, too.) It was one of Burch’s more beautiful collections because of its ease and sophistication. The models looked good. They really did.
But one could not help but think: This is it. The ice caps have melted. Winter is finished. We are doomed.
But at least we will go down looking lovely.
Also at New York Fashion Week: