The Washington PostDemocracy Dies in Darkness

Lobsters, pineapples, sailboats and straitjackets: Thom Browne’s vision of preppy gone mad

Models in the Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2019 fashion show walked precariously through his seaside beach scene. (Jonas Gustavsson/MCV Photo for The Washington Post)

PARIS — On Sunday afternoon, designer Thom Browne took his audience to a fantasy beach club. Cabana boys in seersucker skirts and fringed beards handed out gerbera daisies, and lady life guards in knit bikinis and bodysuits embroidered with anchors kept vigil over a sandy landscape dotted by a pastel-colored palm tree and criss-crossed by a red, white and blue boardwalk.

The spring 2019 collection was a display of Browne’s love of craftsmanship, fully loosed and leaving the mind agog. It was his imagination going full tilt. And sometimes leaving one unnerved.

[Robin Givhan at Paris Fashion Week: full coverage]

Shrunken jackets were embroidered with thousands of fabric paillettes. Oversize coats were assembled using hundreds of gold buttons etched with little sailboats in lieu of straightforward seams. The goal, Browne said during a preview the day before, was to take traditional preppy shapes and iconography and elevate them to the extreme. He wanted to experiment with proportions — exploding some and taking others down to the smallest size into which a very slender model could squeeze her super tiny arms. “I’m taking iconic, very understandable ideas and heightening them,” Browne said.

That, of course, is the philosophy on which his company is built. He began a decade ago in menswear with a classic gray flannel suit. He changed its proportions — cropping the trousers and shortening the jacket — and ultimately he helped to shift the aesthetics of the entire menswear market. He recently sold a controlling interest in his company to Italy’s Zegna Group for $500 million.

[Everyone laughed at Thom Browne’s short pants. Now they’ve made him very rich.]

The runway show is where Browne weaves a dream-like narrative. It’s the place where his ideas are presented in their most concentrated form. What is a consumer to make of his ice cream cone mask, sea anemone coat and watermelon slice hat? His version of spring will be a season of preppy references, pastel colors, impish embroidery, fanciful accessories and attention-grabbing silhouettes.

On the runway, his translucent tennis dress with its extended train glistened with sequins. A model was turned into a high-fashion shark with an oversized blazer — one that surely weighed 20 pounds — encrusted with brass-colored metal pailletes and a matching fin hat. Swimming pool rafts inspired blazers. Whole coats served as an ode to bananas. Whale appliqués were everywhere. Swatches of gingham formed three-dimensional ribbon embroidery. The entire preppy vernacular was transformed through embellishment and exaggeration. There was even a seagull in white feather shorts and a matching feather jacket to complete the seashore fantasia.

The searing jolt of reality? The models moved along his boardwalk slowly and with mincing steps. Their feet were nearly en pointe thanks to the extreme pitch of the shoes. It was hard to fully settle happily into Browne’s beautiful fantasy when so many of the models looked like they might tumble over at any moment. Taking the heel height down a couple of inches would not have lessened the fanciful nature of the show. And one would have been able to breathe as each model passed by.

Several of the models also had their arms bound to their sides. It was a reference to nautical knots and fishing nets, but sometimes the binding was so tight that the models looked as though they’d been taken hostage. One dress — inspired by a lobster and accessorized with giant red trapunto claws — had the model’s arms so firmly tied to her sides that it was like watching a death-defying Flying Wallenda tightrope act as she tried to balance on the treacherous high heels without benefit of her arms.

The runway was a pure fantasy, but real models had to bring it to life. They surely deserve hardship pay for having to wear those shoes. And their photos should not look like proof-of-life.

Miraculously, thankfully, no one fell. The clothes were exquisite. The fantasy rather indulgent. But most important, the models survived.


Balenciaga’s big new shoulders aren’t from the ’80s. They’re from the future.

From Junya Watanabe and Altuzarra, two radically different visions of romance

On the Comme des Garçons runway, pregnancy as metaphor

A provocative designer has just blown up a 70-year-old brand. But to what end?

What we talk about when we talk about ‘effortless chic’

These glittery, chainmailed, mismatched clothes are difficult — but so worth it

Apocalyptic looks for your 2018 mood, from Rick Owens

Gender-blurring made as awkward as possible at Maison Margiela — but why?

What exactly is Saint Laurent saying about female sexuality and empowerment here?

Marine Serre is a name you’ll want to remember

‘Outside there is a war,’ so Dior and Gucci offer the fashion equivalent of self-care