Updated Nov. 2, 11:30 a.m.
Cochon hosted a “late-night Asian speak-easy” in Atlanta on Oct. 28, and Muss & Turner’s chef Todd Mussman wore a kimono, woven bamboo hat and glasses that made his eyes appear stereotypically Asian. Cochon founder Brady Lowe (at right in the image) and other chefs posed for a photo with Mussman, which was then reposted on the main Cochon Instagram. It has since been removed.
The event was “supposed to be paying respect to a culture through food,” said Lee, chef at Mandu in Dupont Circle. “But to completely degrade that culture by wearing that outfit, and posing and smiling, just shows the ignorance about Asian culture.”
Those in the industry who might shrug off the costume as merely Halloween humor remind Bruner-Yang of GOP presidential nominee Donald Trump.
“It goes back to Trump dismissing his behavior as locker room talk,” said Bruner-Yang, chef-owner at Maketto on H Street NE. Kitchens are, unfortunately, places where conversations can be macho, brusque and flat-out offensive, he said. “I think diversity is always an issue in kitchens.”
Lee, Bruner-Yang and Kim reposted the photo on their own Instagram accounts today to call on Cochon to apologize. Kim, formerly the chef of Yona, now works for Makoto in Miami.
“One of the restaurants I worked at before [Mandu], my nickname was ‘The Donger’ from ‘Sixteen Candles,’ like Long Duk Dong,” said Lee. “They just assumed I was cool with it, because in their eyes, it wasn’t offensive.”
In a statement, Lowe said:
“Both myself and @Cochon555 would like to apologize for the inappropriate representation of race that took place at our recent ‘Late Nite Asian Speak-easy’ event in Atlanta. This demonstrated a lack of sensitivity and poor judgment, and it is not something we are proud of in any way. The celebration of global food cultures has always been at the core of our mission, and we will continue to strive to bring people of all backgrounds together in celebration of safe, honest, and authentic eating.”
Lowe later issued a video apology on YouTube.
Mussman also issued a statement:
“I would like to say I’m sorry for my inappropriate and thoughtless actions during the recent Cochon Late Nite Speakeasy event at Muss & Turners. While it was never my intention to be disrespectful or demeaning to anyone or any culture, by wearing the tasteless costume, I did exactly that: I offended, hurt and disappointed many people. I am embarrassed and deeply sorry for my lack of sensitivity and my ignorance.”
It’s not the first time that allegations of racism against Asians have made headlines in the restaurant industry. In 2014, Michelin-starred chef Cesar Ramirez of Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare was accused of using an epithet to refer to Asians by a former server. The server also alleged that Ramirez would give Asians the worst cuts of meat. Ramirez has denied the allegations. In Washington, ice cream company Milk Cult ran into trouble by naming a coconut milk ice cream “Bangkok Brothel.” Critics said the company was making light of sex trafficking and prostitution. The company kept the name, and donated a portion of its profits to organizations that aid sex workers. Restaurant patrons are part of the problem, too: They’re more likely to accuse immigrant restaurants of giving them food poisoning than restaurants that serve conventional American or European food.
Bruner-Yang said he had a productive conversation with Lowe about how to move forward and start a dialogue about racism in restaurant kitchens. The organization’s response will inform how he views his affiliation with Cochon in the future.
“Everyone has the opportunity to turn a wrong into a right,” he said.
As for Lee, he is severing ties with the organization.
“I cannot see myself supporting it,” he said. “My hope is that this starts a conversation. I don’t care if it’s Asians, African Americans, Latinos. You cannot do this and think it’s funny.”