The Washington Post

Set for summer: Fish Taco in Cabin John

The principals behind Food Wine & Co. in Bethesda are expanding to the Cabin John area with a fresh concept: Fish Taco, a 30-seat fast/casual restaurant serving the obvious tacos, but also salads, burritos and rice bowls dressed with a choice of vegetables and other toppings.

Chef Michael Harr at Food Wine & Co. restaurant in Bethesda. (Scott Suchman/For the Washington Post) Chef Michael Harr at Food Wine & Co. restaurant in Bethesda. (Scott Suchman/For the Washington Post)

“Simplicity is going to be key,” says Michael Harr, the executive chef at Food Wine & Co and one of the three owners. House-made sauces will run to avocado-tomatillo, charred tomato, habanero-mango and hoisin, the last an opportunity to inform customers this won’t be a straight Mexican kitchen. Platters will cost no more than $13.

While Harr and his business partners mulled other ideas, including a burger joint, they settled on the fish and taco theme when they scored the space that used to belong to Lucky Garden at 7945 MacArthur Blvd. “Lots of healthy eaters” in the area, explains the chef, who plans to incorporate mahi-mahi, snapper, cod, bay scallops and “halibut in season,” on his menu. Beef, chicken and pork tacos will also be part of the mix.

The owners are aiming for a family-friendly setting: bench seating, wood paneling, some brick, and concrete floors with veins of blue to suggest proximity to the Potomac.

Diners can catch Fish Taco in July.

Weaned on a beige buffet a la “Fargo” in Minnesota, Tom Sietsema is the food critic for The Washington Post. This is his second tour of duty at the Post. Sietsema got his first taste in the ‘80s, when he was hired by his predecessor to answer phones, write some, and test the bulk of the Food section’s recipes. That’s how he learned to clean squid, bake colonial cakes and distinguish between nutmeg and mace.



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