Doughnuts are easy. Doughnut sandwiches? Gird your arteries. To mark the arrival of the Glazed Donut Breakfast Sandwich at Dunkin' Donuts, and in honor of National Doughnut Day, we test-drove three doughnut-based sandwiches around town.
Astro Fried Chicken & Doughnuts: My first thought while eating Astro's fried chicken BLT on a savory chive doughnut: It's oily; it leaves a glistening sheen on my fingertips with even the slightest touch. My second thought: I'm eating a sandwich comprised of doughnut, fried chicken, bacon and mayonnaise, so seriously, what did I expect? Putting aside the decadence of the sandwich and what it says about America, here's the deal: The chive doughnut, while greasy, is good. It lacks a hole, but is doughnutty in texture, with a slight hint of sweetness. The peppery fried chicken is made from dark meat, which is a nice surprise. Just be sure you have plenty of napkins. $7. -- MJ
GBD: One bite in, the Luther already tastes like a series of alarms are going off in my mouth. **WARNING** **SELF-IMPOSED DIETARY PROTOCOLS BREACHED** **SEEK MIXED GREEN SALAD** Concerned but undeterred, I continue. This fried chicken doughnut sandwich isn't on anyone's dietary white list, so I promise to run in the morning and to eat a healthy breakfast to make up for it. (Both of these would prove to be lies.) What strikes me the most is the stickiness of this beast, thanks to the sheen of maple-chicken jus that is now pooling beneath the brioche doughnut. Beneath the two halves is a hefty boneless chicken thigh, a bit spicy and covered in a layer of bacon that almost gets lost in the sugary commotion. Shall I add Frankenbutter? Sure! By this point, my inner alarm console has been long silenced. $10. -- AB
Dunkin' Donuts: Less than 12 hours after the Luther, I'm asking the cashier at Dunkin Donuts for one of the chain's new Glazed Donut Breakfast Sandwiches which isn't even posted on the menu board yet. By the time I get back to the office to unwrap the 360-calorie wad, it's in rough shape; the word that comes to mind is 'splat.' The doughnut's glaze appears as a peeling coat of paint, and I've never seen an egg that appears more removed from an actual chicken than the thin disc of industrial egg product that awaits inside, beneath two (or is it three?) strips of slackened bacon. The taste is all doughnut, and it's over fast; unlike the Luther, which required commitment and a will to finish, Dunkin's offering was like quickly peeking at a horror film from behind hand-covered eyes. Now, where can I find a mixed green salad ... $2.99. -- AB