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It’s Taco Bamba time: Victor Albisu’s Falls Church taqueria opens June 17

"We're ready to go!" Victor Albisu told me yesterday -- and I had to ask if I was hearing him correctly, that his long-awaited Taco Bamba in Falls Church was really, truly opening June 17. Sure enough, the chef of the freshly minted Del Campo in the District says he and his co-partner -- his mother, Rosa Susinski, who owns a Latin market nearby -- plan to start selling tacos, sopas and Mexican small plates from their new storefront beginning at lunch on Monday.

Chef Victor Albisu's signature taco folds skirt steak, chorizo, fried pork rinds, guacamole and jalapeno peppers in a cheese-stuffed corn tortilla. (Jeff Martin)

Part of the reason for the delay: Albisu changed construction companies after the project was underway last year. The silver lining in the epic wait: "I got my pick of people." The chef says he was able to hire the best cooks, including one from Mexico with a long family history in the taco-making trade.

The menu will star traditional and chef-inspired tacos. Translation: Look for tacos with chorizo and roast pork, but also sweetbreads and duck confit. Vegetarians can look forward to a "Spicy Shroom" taco filled with portobellos, grilled corn, chipotle and more.

Victor Albisu. (Courtesy Del Campo)

Albisu calls the setting "an urban but clean environment" with blue-gray walls and the name of the shop spray-painted in bright red. Stools ring the perimeter; a patio out front can accommodate grazers, too. Chalkboard menus will flag the daily specials. Tacos and other dishes will run between $3 and $12.

Taco Bamba will be open for lunch and dinner daily, with breakfast being added to the menu in the near future. "I feel like the neighborhood needs it," Albisu says of both the food and the schedule. Let the line start here.

Taco Bamba, 2190 Pimmit Dr., Falls Church. 703-639-0505. Opens Monday, June 17. 

Weaned on a beige buffet a la “Fargo” in Minnesota, Tom Sietsema is the food critic for The Washington Post. This is his second tour of duty at the Post. Sietsema got his first taste in the ‘80s, when he was hired by his predecessor to answer phones, write some, and test the bulk of the Food section’s recipes. That’s how he learned to clean squid, bake colonial cakes and distinguish between nutmeg and mace.



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